Sunday, March 2, 2008

What's Going to Happen

Here is what will happen this week. Foodwise, that is. (Other predictions might be a shade more risky: a surprise stock-market surge? A Hillary comeback? I've no business getting involved in any such prophecies). But here are three virtual certainties:

First, I'm going to try my hand at making gnocci. I've been inspired by A.N.'s words about the difficulty of the venture, as well as by my own recollections of gummy, heavy dumplings. According to Marcella Hazan, whose recipes I enjoy but who knows no fear of mystification, the key to success is the potato itself. One must use "boiling" potatoes, rather than the more waxy salad potatoes or the starchy Idaho baking potatoes. It just so happens that the two-for-one bagged potato sale some weeks ago concerned the anonymous boiling variety. So we might be in luck.

Second, it's been a long time since we've had pumpkin and bacon risotto. So why not this week? One of the peculiarities of this dish is that I refuse to call it what it actually is. There's no pumpkin involved. It's really a squash and bacon risotto. But this sounds less profound, somehow. Calling it pumpkin adds an element of mystery, and perhaps a hint of the regional, the teroir: can you really get hold of a tasty pie pumpkin with as much flavor as a winter squash? No. But it's fun to pretend.

Third, H. recently forwarded me a Bittman recipe for a fish stew with fennel and Pernod. In other words, it's a Bouillabaisse. But a simplified, middle-of the week version. I've toyed with a number of similar recipes, so this should be quite familiar. More importantly, it's delicious-- and thus a savory means for riding out the last leg of Winter's tortuous journey. We can dream of warm Mediterranean air and al fresco dining.

You know the scene already: the table overlooking the bay. The sun-bleached seaside architecture rising up against a background of deep Mediter- ranean blue. The bottle of crisp, dry white wine at the table The smells of lavender, salt air, and anisette. Straight out of a travel brochure. (Literally, in this case. Welcome to Monaco).

Whatever it takes to survive the last few weeks of winter in central Pennsylvania. Who cares if it's someone else's fantasy!

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